Martigny is a modern Swiss town and a crossroads of trains, rivers and, er, roads. It’s the elbow of our trip, where the River Rhône turns ninety degrees north and heads towards Lake Geneva. The River Drance flows from the southern Valais into Martigny and joins the Rhône there. Travellers from the Simplon, the Col du Grand Saint-Bernard and the Forclaz passes all converge there. Being Swiss, it is also a hub for trains to all points.
Martigny has a thing for cow fights and a large, well preserved Roman amphitheatre. The Romans have again made their mark there, but it’s a bit better hidden than in Italy. The town is surrounded by a lot of industry, as befits a hub, but closer to the next pass it’s more like Italy, with its Rhône valley vineyards and views. Martigny has a pleasant town square surrounded by cafes and shops, if you want refreshments. Overlooking the town, perched in amongst the vineyards are the remains of the Château de la Bâtiaz.