The village of Saint Paul de Vence sits on top of the Plateau du Puy some 20 minutes inland from the coast. Its fortified walls were built to defend against Charles V of Spain, but they offer no protection from the summer tourists.
It wasn’t until the 19th century that Saint-Paul claimed its current status as home to the artists that still occupy its narrow, cobbled streets.
Much like coastal Èze, Saint-Paul is a medieval village on an outcrop, although unlike Èze it comprises a fortified circle with one street running through it. The main street is just like the old towns of the area, with the sunlight only penetrating when the sun is at its highest point. We circle the town on the ramparts, with a wall to one side and a sheer drop on the other; it certainly wouldn’t pass planning approval these days! Meeting oncoming visitors of a large stature offers the chance to see who’s braver.
Once circled, the main street features a variety of local artists displaying everything from modern art to ceramics to handicrafts. On the square of the same name, we stop at Le Tilleul for some light refreshments. No doubt a fine restaurant, it serves ‘creative, sophisticated cuisine focusing on fresh produce’ – but we go straight for one of the homemade desserts. And boy it’s good.