Col des Montets sits between Vallorcine and Chamonix at an elevation of 1,461 metres. The pass is generally open in winter, but it can be closed in extreme weather and frequently requires snow chains and/or winter tyres. The tunnel of the Saint-Gervais–Vallorcine railway has been modified to carry road traffic on a convoy basis between trains when the pass is closed.
The Col road runs through part of the Aiguilles Rouges or Red Needles, a nature reserve on the south side of the Chamonix valley. The Aiguilles get their red colour from the gneiss rocks that form their base. The nature reserve runs from Col des Montets towards Chamonix and makes for great hikes, climbing, and spotting chamois and Alpine ibex.
At the top of the Col, there are various easy trails around the small lakes and streams on the plateau. Even here you can spot ibex; they patrol the area and can often be found in summer licking the nature-reserve cabin for salt. It’s a weird sight, and it’s entertaining to watch tourists trying to get close for a photo without being butted. The trails run deep into the Aiguilles Rouges, which are fêted for the death of James Bond’s parents, and home to serious hikes and trail runs.
At the Col des Montets, a chalet houses exhibitions about the local fauna, flora and geology, with taxidermy displays downstairs for those fascinated by stuffed dead things. The chalet is open only in the summer months so we are saved the grisly tour.
The descent from Col des Montets is dangerous thanks to some narrow roads, gullies on either side, crazy coach drivers and the distraction of the view. Mountains, glaciers and waterfalls all conspire to distract you late in the day and nearly at journey’s end. Best to stop and enjoy it from one of the parking spots on the descent.
Col des Montets ends as Argentière begins. The village has a scenic church with a glacier backdrop and the Grand Montets lift station, from where you can ride to the top of the Argentière glacier – once they rebuild the burned-down lift station from 2018 and update the top station - scheduled to fully open in 2027.