The village of Èze has traces of human occupation going back to around 2,000 BC and is full of charming buildings, winding narrow streets and beautiful views. Part of the village is dominated by the Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption church and courtyard, built in the 18th century. At the very top of the village is the Jardin Exotique d’Èze, where on a good day the views over the terracotta-tiled rooftops stretch all the way to Corsica.
The Côte d’Azur stretches out below the extensive gardens, filled with cacti, succulents and sculptures of maidens emerging from the earth. The 14 sculptures by French artist Jean-Philippe Richard are scattered amongst the Mediterranean flora, their views some of the best on the Riviera. It’s worth the admission fee even if you don’t know a succulent from a succubus.
Isis Moriendo Renascor (In death I am reborn) The motto of Èze
Walking around the narrow, cobbled streets, it feels like you’re intruding in someone’s home. Many of the shops are so tiny that business is conducted in the pathway. Behind half-open doors, all manner of activities are glimpsed or imagined. A waiter with a tray of still-hot croissants emerges in front of us and waits patiently as a tour party clears a steep set of stairs before darting down them and back in another doorway.
Nestled amongst all this and taking up almost an entire side of the village is the five-star Château de la Chèvre d’Or (Castle of the Golden Goat) hotel. Its gardens contain a range of unusual sculptures, including an actual golden goat, along with elephants, giraffes and crocodiles, which can be seen up close for the substantial price of a room. Or you could just peer over the wall as we did.
Èze is one of the tourist hotspots of the Riviera and even in the early morning you can find yourself caught up with a tour party that’s stopped and blocked the path to receive a lecture on whatever it is they are looking at. It’s not something you can readily avoid; we visited early on two consecutive April mornings before 9.00 am, and one was quiet while the other had three coachloads fighting to get around. It’s the kind of place you can visit more than once, though, and you can always try to wait the crowds out with a hot croissant and a cappuccino in one of the secluded cafés.